Saturday, April 10, 2010

Building with loops...

In the last week I’ve forgotten about knit so much and I’m thinking more about structure. It’s allowed me to focus on developing my research without looking to find other influences or examples of knitwear. I found I have returned to my Triumph work that I submitted, and I realise it’s not as disconnected from my work than I thought.

The simple act of knitting was confusing for me. I knew how to knit, but I was really confused as to how the one continuous yarn/wire/chain was actually turning into a whole piece! It sounds stupid, but even when I was learning about the different weaves and knits in textiles, I could never work out the difference between wales, stitches or courses. Picking up needles and knitting didn’t help at all. So I’ve been in this slump because I couldn’t get past not knowing how the whole thing worked!

Knitting with the chunky yarn compared to the wire was really different. The wire created a flat piece and there was no stretch, which made the wool yarn seem like it was knitted with a different structure.

Above: A chain stitch formation.

The wire removed function of the knit. In the same way I took away the original function of the underwire in the Triumph piece and made it purely aesthetic. I looked into a similar process last semester where I was taking a knit fabric and changing its original purpose.

When we were dissecting the flowers in class I made this grid of flowers that were all connected (below). Ricarda asked me how I could use this as a pattern with knit and I pretty much came up with a blank. At that point I couldn’t see how it could, I was only thinking about the traditional ‘grid’ pattern for knits. As I have thought more about it I can see how the flowers were linking together just like stitches. That took me back to the list of words Winnie gave me, linking, loops, structure, making, constructing, creating…

I began to think about the construction of knitting and thought about each stitch like a brick in a building. The difference between the two is that the yarn is a continuous whereas the bricks are separate. Using the same kind of technique as I did in Triumph, I recreated the shape of each single loop. I had to look really closely at the shapes of the stiches to find out which overlapped where and what shape they created. Again, this was confusing so I started out with a simple crochet stitch (chain stitch) and with wire, which was easier to see what pattern the wire followed. I changed the shape of the loop five times before the links would line up successfully.


Above: Starting with a circle shape for the loop, the fourth experiment didn't link up properly, the fifth experiment which linked.

I seem to have a recurring need for repetition in my work, whether that be the process, or a shape or loop. I think there are a lot of possibilities for ‘building’ garments with this technique. What I couldn’t create with needles I can create with single loops. Specialty knits like tricot, interlock weft knit, rib weft knit, cable knits, pile knits etc. There is a whole range that I could explore as well as crochet and lace stitches which could lead to making my own links/loops.




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